About your host – Ned Goodwin MW
Ned Goodwin MW is a dux of the Len Evans Tutorial, Japan’s first Master of Wine, an educator, consultant, judge, critic and motivational speaker and presenter. He has served as wine director for one of Asia's largest restaurant groups and was also the ‘wine face’ for All Nippon Airways. In addition, he is an Asian-focused ambassador for a Champagne house, the host of Langton’s TV, has had his own TV wine show in Japan, is on the Wine Committee at Italy’s illustrious Biondi-Santi, and has his own import company, Wine Diamonds. Before Japan, Ned was a sommelier at Michelin-starred Veritas in New York, which had arguably the finest wine list in the world.
First wine bracket
New World wine
Cullen Wines Kevin John Legacy Chardonnay 2021
Region: Margaret River, WA
A pioneer of Margaret River, Cullen Wines has always produced wines of highly individual style from the mature estate vineyard. The vineyard has progressed beyond organic to biodynamic certification and, subsequently, has become the first vineyard and winery in Australia to be certified carbon positive. Winemaking is in the hands of Vanya Cullen, daughter of founders Kevin and Diana Cullen; she is possessed of an extraordinarily good palate and generosity to the cause of fine wine. Vanya is also a pioneer of biodynamic viticulture in Australia and was awarded the Halliday Wine Companion's inaugural Viticulturist of the Year in 2022.
Matured in puncheons (35 per cent new and of biodynamic origins) for eight months without further additions. The colour pick-up is substantial, but there's nothing in the bouquet that suggests premature ageing or maderisation, et al. It's complex but harmonious, long and balanced. There's more stone fruit, fig and melon than citrus, but that's intentional, and in tune with the Wilyabrup subregion. – 97 points, James Halliday AM
Old World wine
Vincent Dauvissat La Forest Premier Cru Chablis 2018
Region: Chablis, France
Vincent Dauvissat is inarguably one of the greatest producers in Chablis. The wines produced by Dauvissat are some of the most sought after and always tightly held by those who manage to get their hands on them.
Defined by terroir and crafted in the most caring manner, the reputation of the wines, and the domaine that makes them has become best known for the expression of place, balance and purity. Rigorous pruning and ébourgeonnage (the French term for debudding vines) ensure the lowest of yields in the vineyard, inducing a delicate equilibrium which allows the vines to remain healthy and bring its fruit to full maturity.
In the cellar, the Dauvissats look to vinify their wines with only the smallest of input by human hands allowing the power of terroir to be the driving force in defining style and character.
The 2018 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest is showing well, opening in the glass with aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, citrus oil, beeswax, honeycomb and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it's fleshy and enveloping, with a lovely spine of acidity and a long, saline finish. Like the Vaillons, this is quite demonstrative for a young Dauvissat Forest, and it will deliver considerable pleasure straight out of the gates.
Second wine bracket
New World wine
Yarra Yering Carrodus Pinot Noir 2017
Region: Yarra Valley, VIC
Yarra Yering was established in 1969 at the foot of the Warramate Hills in Victoria's Yarra Valley by Dr Bailey Carrodus.
Dr Carrodus died in 2008 but the traditions he established were built upon by Paul Bridgeman and since 2013, winemaker Sarah Crowe.
Sarah has been awarded Winemaker of the Year in the 2017 Halliday Wine Companion. The 2022 Halliday Wine Companion named Yarra Yering the Winery of the Year, and the Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 1 2019 the Wine of the Year.
Hand-picked from a block planted in '69, whole-berry fermented, matured for 9 months in French oak (40% per cent new). A highly floral/spicy bouquet is followed by an intense, complex palate with dark cherry and plum dominant, savoury/spicy notes matching those of the bouquet. The balance and length are perfect. – 97 points, James Halliday AM
Old World wine
Domaine des Perdrix Echezeaux Grand Cru Red Burgundy 2017
Region: Burgundy, France
The Echezeaux Grand Cru vineyard is divided into two plots located for 80 per cent in the climate ‘Echezeaux Du Dessus’ planted in 1922 and 20 per cent in the climate ‘Quartiers de Nuits’ planted in 1945.
To preserve their integrity grapes are carefully harvested and sorted out by hand. Grapes are partially de-stemmed. Before beginning the alcoholic fermentation they make a cold pre fermentation during 4 to 6 days to work on the phelonic component’s extraction. Then full maceration lasts for 15 days during which only pigeages will be used. Intensity and numbers are lead to the concentration of tannins, perfumes and colour. Alcoholic fermentation is realised with natural yeasts.
After maceration free and press juices are separated for ageing. Ageing process takes place in traditional Burgundian 228 litre barrels during 18 months with 80 per cent new barrels. They only use French oak coming mainly from Bourgogne, Allier and Vosges forests.
Pretty ruby colour with purple reflects. Intense and fruity with black and red fruits scents - cherries, strawberries and plums. Some spicy notes as well: cinnamon, pepper. On the palate, the wine is ample, very persistent. Tart finish with black fruits, chocolate and pepper notes. Beautiful tannins. Great cellaring potential. – 94 points, Jasper Morris
Third wine bracket
New World wine
Henschke Hill of Grace 2015
Region: Eden Valley, SA
Henschke is the foremost medium-sized wine producer in Australia. Stephen and Prue Henschke have taken a crown jewel and polished it to an even greater brilliance. Year on year they have quietly added labels for single vineyards, single varieties or blends.
The wines hail from the Eden Valley (the majority), the Barossa Valley or the Adelaide Hills. There’s a compelling logic and focus – no excursions to McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, etc. There are now four wines from the Hill of Grace Vineyard: the icon itself, Hill of Roses (also shiraz), Hill of Peace (semillon) and Hill of Faith (mataro); the last two are only made in exceptional years.
Recognition as Winery of the Year in the 2021 Companion was arguably long overdue.
Henschke says the '15 vintage provided stunning and elegant Eden Valley shiraz with extraordinary flavours, purity of fruit and acid balance. And indeed that's a fair description of this medium-bodied Hill of Grace. The colour is still bright, clear crimson-purple, and the beautifully balanced fruit flavours are vibrantly fresh. It would be easy to underestimate the likely longevity of this wine. One of the all-time greats. – 99 points, James Halliday AM
Old World wine
Chateau Haut-Brion Bordeaux 2015
Region: Pessac-Leognan, France
A long heat wave and dry period in 2015 allowed for excellent flowering conditions until the arrival, in August, of miraculous rains. This rain enabled the vines to maintain the necessary water reserves and to provide requisite nourishment for perfect ripeness. The harvest began in September under a clear blue sky. Thanks to this ideal weather, Chateau Haut-Brion were able to wait for optimum ripeness for each grape variety. All the conditions are there, allowing the 2015 vintage to join the greatest vintages of Bordeaux.
A blend of 50% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, the medium to deep garnet-purple coloured 2015 Haut-Brion is reticent to begin, languidly revealing crushed black cherries, ripe black plums and wild blueberries with sparks of cinnamon stick, cloves, nutmeg, espresso, unsmoked cigars, tapenade, crushed rocks and lavender. The full-bodied palate possesses wonderfully complementary contrasts of bold black and blue fruit richness and delicately nuanced cherry fruit, baking spices and floral accents, strutting ripe, finely pixelated tannins and seamless acidity that is placed firmly in the background, finishing very long and with plenty of attitude. This impeccably poised, exquisitely perfumed 2015 Haut-Brion possesses the most alluring yet seemingly effortless beauty. While it bears only a passing resemblance in its opulent personality to the now legendary 1989, like that vintage the 2015 cannot fail to hedonically satiate and intellectually edify all lovers of great Bordeaux who drink it. What’s more, it also has the blue-blooded tenaciousness to remain this jaw-droppingly impressive, throughout its many guises over time, and for a very, very long time. – 100 points, Lisa Perotti-Brown
Dessert wine
New World wine
All Saints Estate Rare Rutherglen Muscat NV
Region: Rutherglen, VIC
The 5-star winery rating reflects the fortified wines, including the unique releases of Museum Muscat and Muscadelle, each with an average age of more than 100 years (and table wines). The one hatted Terrace Restaurant makes this a must-stop for any visitor to North East Victoria, as does the National Trust–listed property with its towering castle centrepiece. All Saints and St Leonards are owned and managed by 4th-generation Brown family members Eliza, Angela and Nick. Eliza is an energetic and highly intelligent leader, wise beyond her years, and highly regarded by the wine industry.
The official Rare Muscat classification is for fortifieds with an average 30+ years. All Saints' Rare averages 45 years, testament to the astonishing breadth and depth of stocks in its possession. How those stocks are managed, how neutral spirit is used to brighten and freshen them is the secret to a great muscat. It's here in a luscious core of dried fruit, fruitcake, soused raisins, honey and treacle-drenched walnut. Then comes the clean, driving spirit elevating everything into sheer decadence. – 97 points, Jeni Port