Burke & Hills

In response to my standard request for insight into motives and goals, founder Doug Burke wrote, ‘I guess you would scream if you heard another new small vineyard/winery prattling on about small volumes, low yields, best practice … in a quest for great quality, subtlety and complexity.’ Very likely, but here the facts speak for themselves: the selection of a steeply sloping, frost-free, north-facing slope rising to an altitude of 940 m on Mt Lidster; the planting of 10 ha of classic varieties, but including a mix of the best clones of pinot noir; the appointment of Brett Wilkins as viticulturist and former Gevrey Chambertin-cum-Flying Winemaker Christophe Derrez; the erection of a 200 tonne capacity winery to supplement cash flow by undertaking contract winemaking; and the running of the Lakeside Café at Lake Canobolas, 2 km from the winery … All of these things point to a business plan with one objective: in Burke’s words, ‘Don’t go broke.’ -JAMES HALLIDAY