Maglieri of McLaren Vale

This was one of the better-kept secrets among the wine cognoscenti, but not among the many customers who drank thousands of cases of white and red Lambrusco every year; an example of niche marketing at its profitable best. It was a formula that proved irresistible to Beringer Blass, which acquired Maglieri in 1999. Unfortunately, it is no longer possible to make Lambrusco from grapes other than true lambrusco, and there are only a few hectares planted in Australia. -JAMES HALLIDAY