James Halliday's Top 100 wines of 2021

Top whites over $30

James Halliday by James Halliday

19 Nov, 2021

Australia’s premium white wines are in fine form. Take your pick from this stellar selection, which offers a style for every taste.

"Seven rieslings over $30 – ravishingly, madly unprecedented. Winemakers and industry professionals place riesling on the pedestal it deserves."

The following wines were chosen from a total 154 submitted and are listed in varietal order.

Five top whites over $30

2021 Stargazer Coal River Valley Riesling 
This is a glorious wine; the bouquet and fore-palate are full of Rose's lime juice that has a siren allure, but it's the soaring finish and aftertaste that send all the senses into overdrive with a quivering line of acidity within its fruit.
97 points | $35 | Screwcap | 12% alc. | Drink to 2036 | Stargazer Wine 

2020 Best’s Foudre Ferment Great Western Riesling 
Made from juice with extended skin contact and wild fermented in a large oak foudre, more or less exactly how a winemaker in the Rheingau would make a kabinett riesling. It pulsates with a sinuous dance between the juicy lime fruits and delicate but intense acidity.
97 points | $35 | Screwcap | 12% alc. | Drink to 2035 | Best’s Wines 

2020 Freycinet Riesling 
Freycinet is best known for its pinot noir and chardonnay, but also has a proud history of producing immaculately honed and balanced rieslings with a life span measured in decades rather than years. Glistening citrus all sorts is the violin, crisp, minerally acidity the bow.
96 points | $35 | Screwcap | 13% alc. | Drink to 2040 | Freycinet 

2021 Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling  
The scented white flower and lime blossom aromas promise much to come on the palate, and don't deceive. It is  utterly delicious, with swathes of lime and pink grapefruit which are fruit-sweet (not residual sugar). Absolutely out of the box.
97 points | $37 | Screwcap | 12.6% alc. | Drink to 2036 | Mount Horrocks 

2021 Rieslingfreak No. 12 Riesling  
From the Flaxman Valley. The perfumed bouquet has a spray of white florals before the palate opens its doors with an exquisite play between deep mineral notes and intense citrus zest. So perfect is the balance, these inputs so harmonious, the wine is positively ethereal.
97 points | $37 | Screwcap | 11% alc. | Drink to 2036 | Rieslingfreak

Five top whites over $30
2021 Henschke Julius Eden Valley Riesling  
Citrus and passionfruit blossom soar as you swirl the glass, and the palate achieves the seemingly impossible with the volume of turbo-charged fruit. It reaches every receptor in the mouth and there's no hint of added acidity, the balance and length faultless.
98 points | $47 | Screwcap | 11.5% alc. | Drink to 2034 | Henschke 

2021 Grosset Polish Hill Clare Valley Riesling  
Estate-grown, and 100% free run juice. The lime blossom perfume of the bouquet sets the scene for a palate of precision and linear power, crisp acidity drawing out the long, lingering finish and aftertaste. Lime, lemon and apple all add their part. Will develop gloriously.
97 points | $72 | Screwcap | 12.9% alc. | Drink to 2031 | Grosset 

2013 Leogate Estate Museum Release Creek Bed Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon  
Still as young and effortless as it was in its youth with its parade of all things lemon – zest, pith, unsweetened juice (redoubled by Hunter Valley's minerally acidity). It will slowly pick up even more depth as it ages, but lacks for little right now.
97 points | $50 | Screwcap | 11.5% alc. | Drink to 2033 | Leogate Estate Wines 

2014 Brokenwood ILR Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon  
Still freakishly green-straw, it is an exercise in purity from start to finish, all the facets of the bouquet and palate utterly harmonious, balanced and long with citrus, beeswax and lemongrass floating on a transparent film of acidity. A flawless wine that is a vinous masterpiece.
99 points | $100 | Screwcap | 11.5% alc. | Drink to 2034 | Brokenwood

2020 Domaine Naturaliste Sauvage Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc 
A great white wine vintage. Bright straw-green, barrel fermented in French puncheons (33% new), but that is not the only winemaking input, some enriching use of solids also in play. It's complex, with a lineage that will ensure the wine has a very healthy life ahead.
96 points | $33 | Screwcap | 13% alc. | Drink to 2025 | Domaine Naturaliste 

Five top whites over $30
2015 Geoff Weaver Ferus Lenswood Sauvignon Blanc  
Estate-grown, wild-fermented in French barriques followed by 12 months maturation. Brilliant green-gold. Last tasted 3 years ago, and is still as fresh as a daisy. As good as they can possibly come in this style, said without intending to demean a wine of international class.
96 points | $45 | Screwcap | 13.5% alc. | Drink to 2025 | Geoff Weaver 

2019 Flowstone Queen of the Earth Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc  
Fermentation and 15-months maturation in a 600l demi muid, occasionally stirred. Always a striking and complex wine that manages to be as light on its feet as a ballet dancer, juicy fruits flowing in curved lines through the mouth, humming drink me, drink me.
97 points | $55 | Screwcap | 12.5% alc. | Drink to 2028 | Flowstone Wines 

2020 Mandoon Estate Reserve Margaret River Chardonnay 
Whole bunch-pressed; wild fermented in new and used French barriques. Has it both ways: elegance and richness (with intensity and length), and a citrus blossom fragrance. All of these characters come together, along with white peach and Granny Smith apple to make magic.
97 points | $59 | Screwcap | 13% alc. | Drink to 2032 | Mandoon Estate 

2012 TarraWarra Estate Cellar Release Reserve Yarra Valley Chardonnay 
If you wish to see the extreme length and longevity of Yarra Valley chardonnay, go no further. This lovely self-possessed wine is on its plateau of perfection, and will hold its form for years (5+) to come. The freshness of its finish and lingering aftertaste is its ace-in-the-hole.
97 points | $60 | Screwcap | 12.8% alc. | Drink to 2027 | TarraWarra Estate 

2020 Stella Bella Luminosa Margaret River Chardonnay  
Wild fermented in French barriques; neither fined nor filtered. A very complex wine of immediate power, with a deliberately funky bouquet, then changing tack with the glorious purity and focus of the palate, white peach, grapefruit and cashew/almond combining in a single stream of joy.
98 points | $70 | Screwcap | 13.6% alc. | Drink to 2030 | Stella Bella Wines 

Five top whites over $30

2018 Bannockburn Vineyards S.R.H.  
From a single block of the P58 clone panted 1976 honouring founder Stuart Hooper. This is a glorious chardonnay achieving the near-impossible equal blend of purity and complexity. If served blind to me first up, I'd be in Burgundy with a grand cru in the Montrachet family.
98 points | $77 | Screwcap | 13.1% alc. | Drink to 2038 | Bannockburn Vineyards 

2020 Tolpuddle Vineyard Chardonnay  
Tolpuddle is cementing its place in the great regional chardonnays of Australia, with its piercing purity and intensity reflecting its great Richmond vineyard. Its impact on the aftertaste has no equal, leaving you rooted to the spot. Tolpuddle doesn’t waste great vintage opportunities.
98 points | $93 | Screwcap | 13% alc. | Drink to 2033 | Tolpuddle Vineyard 

2020 Penfolds Reserve Bin A Adelaide Hills Chardonnay  
All fermentation takes place on solids, some juice direct from press to barrel for wild ferment; 100% mlf. This is transparently obvious in the extremely complex bouquet, palate and texture of grapefruit, white peach and fig. Magnificent line and length in world terms.
98 points | $125 | Screwcap | 12.5% alc. | Drink to 2035 | Penfolds 

2018 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Margaret River Chardonnay 
A more expressive – and complex – bouquet than this great, long-lived, wine normally offers at this age, the palate matching the bouquet in its depth and power. Grapefruit, spice and apple tart are its markers, and it's the vineyard that bestows its resilience.
98 points | $126 | Screwcap | 13.5% alc. | Drink to 2043 | Leeuwin Estate 

2020 Coriole Rubato Reserve McLaren Vale Fiano  
Ex 2002 plantings, Coriole the pioneer in McLaren Vale. A small  bottling of a few barrels, with a gleaming straw-green hue, and an endlessly complex mouthfilling array of flavours, ranging from warm Asian spices to honey and nougat, savoury acidity instilling a sense of order.
97 points | $50 | Screwcap | 13% alc. | Drink to 2030 | Coriole


Full list of Top 100 wines.

James Halliday’s Top 100 features in The Weekend Australian Magazine on November 20. 

Some wines in this year's selection also feature on this site with notes by other Tasting Team members, as reviewed for Halliday Wine Companion.